The Sea of Cortez - La Paz to Santa Rosalia
We are currently in Santa Rosalia, more than half
way to Bahia de Los Angeles where we will wait out
the remainder of the hurricane season.
(Hurricanes typically threaten Mexico August
through October). We left La Paz May 21st and hit
Islas Espirtu Santo and Partida. We had visited
those islands before, so we were anxious to leave
and start exploring new unchartered (for us)
waters.
We arrived in Isla San Francisco on May 23rd.
We stayed several days and explored the Island
with Ray and Jayne (Adios). We also enjoyed a
spaghetti feed with Southern Belle and Destarte.
We are currently in Santa Rosalia, more than half
way to Bahia de Los Angeles where we will wait out
the remainder of the hurricane season.
(Hurricanes typically threaten Mexico August
through October). We left La Paz May 21st and hit
Islas Espirtu Santo and Partida. We had visited
those islands before, so we were anxious to leave
and start exploring new unchartered (for us)
waters.
We arrived in Isla San Francisco on May 23rd.
We stayed several days and explored the Island
with Ray and Jayne (Adios). We also enjoyed a
spaghetti feed with Southern Belle and Destarte.
We then visited Punta Evaristo
for one uneventful night and
moved on the truly beautiful
Puerto Los Gatos. This
anchorages was quite colorful.
We bought some great lobster
from a local fisherman and
enjoyed the unique rock
structures in the anchorage.
for one uneventful night and
moved on the truly beautiful
Puerto Los Gatos. This
anchorages was quite colorful.
We bought some great lobster
from a local fisherman and
enjoyed the unique rock
structures in the anchorage.
After a few days, we pulled
into the beautiful Agua
Verde anchorage. We
hung out with Adios, John
and Linda (Nakia), Jerry
(Destarte) and later Paula
and Tim (Hooligan). We
played bocce ball which is
sort of like horseshoes.
You form teams and
attempt to throw a bocce
ball at a small marker. A
lot of bocce ball is played
down here.
into the beautiful Agua
Verde anchorage. We
hung out with Adios, John
and Linda (Nakia), Jerry
(Destarte) and later Paula
and Tim (Hooligan). We
played bocce ball which is
sort of like horseshoes.
You form teams and
attempt to throw a bocce
ball at a small marker. A
lot of bocce ball is played
down here.
We pulled into Puerto Escondido on
June 4th. At first, we weren't that
impressed. It is composed of the
"Waiting room" and the "Hidden Harbor."
A new government marina facility
(Singlar) was built for the Hidden
Harbor. Nice facilities - but very
expensive. And, this isn't a typical
marina. There are no slips - just
mooring balls. And very shotty mooring
balls at that. We were kind of surprised
by the lack of boats in the Hidden
Harbor, but it made sense due to the
fact there are plenty of very nice places
to anchor nearby.
June 4th. At first, we weren't that
impressed. It is composed of the
"Waiting room" and the "Hidden Harbor."
A new government marina facility
(Singlar) was built for the Hidden
Harbor. Nice facilities - but very
expensive. And, this isn't a typical
marina. There are no slips - just
mooring balls. And very shotty mooring
balls at that. We were kind of surprised
by the lack of boats in the Hidden
Harbor, but it made sense due to the
fact there are plenty of very nice places
to anchor nearby.
Next major stop, the charming little town of Loreto.
Because it was so calm, we were able to anchor right
outside of the little panga marina. Usually the weather
only allows boats to anchor comfortably during the
morning hours. Cruisers anchor, provision then head out
to several nearby anchorages before the afternoon wind
picks up.
We were so excited to meet up with our old pals (from
Costa Baja Marina) Tom and Diane (Imagine). We hadn't
seen them since the beginning of February.
We always seem to laugh a lot around these two and it
was no exception when we were almost kicked out of the
museum next to the Mission Church. We didn't do
anything to offend anyone, it's just that - as Diane put it -
"it's not that we don't follow directions well - we don't follow
them at all."
Tom, as I am, is a big fan of clean clothes. He was bound
and determined to find a laundry in town (lavenderia). He
kept asking for directions. Our waiter at breakfast
thought he was inquiring about a basketball game.
Anyway, we finally found it.
Loreto is very clean and has some great restaurants,
stores, etc. They also have a swap meet/farmer's market
on Saturday morning which has great produce.
Because it was so calm, we were able to anchor right
outside of the little panga marina. Usually the weather
only allows boats to anchor comfortably during the
morning hours. Cruisers anchor, provision then head out
to several nearby anchorages before the afternoon wind
picks up.
We were so excited to meet up with our old pals (from
Costa Baja Marina) Tom and Diane (Imagine). We hadn't
seen them since the beginning of February.
We always seem to laugh a lot around these two and it
was no exception when we were almost kicked out of the
museum next to the Mission Church. We didn't do
anything to offend anyone, it's just that - as Diane put it -
"it's not that we don't follow directions well - we don't follow
them at all."
Tom, as I am, is a big fan of clean clothes. He was bound
and determined to find a laundry in town (lavenderia). He
kept asking for directions. Our waiter at breakfast
thought he was inquiring about a basketball game.
Anyway, we finally found it.
Loreto is very clean and has some great restaurants,
stores, etc. They also have a swap meet/farmer's market
on Saturday morning which has great produce.
There are many close by
anchorages around Loreto.
Ballandra is located on
Isla Carmen and its about
a 2 hour ride from Loreto.
The highlight of our stay
was the potluck on the
beach. Also the sunsets
were amazing.
anchorages around Loreto.
Ballandra is located on
Isla Carmen and its about
a 2 hour ride from Loreto.
The highlight of our stay
was the potluck on the
beach. Also the sunsets
were amazing.
Another anchorage we spent a lot
of time at was Isla Coronados.
This is where we were "bee'd out"
for the first time. The bees are
looking for fresh water. On
islands the greatest source of
fresh water is often a boat at
anchorage. A scout bee will come
by and check out your boat and if
he finds any fresh water he will go
back and get all his associates.
These aren't very aggressive
bees - it's pretty easy to kill them.
Sometimes they will fall dead right
out of the sky if you give them an
half way decent swat. Still they
are kind of annoying.
Isla Coronados is also known for
it's dead squid smell. Apparently,
the males die after mating (ladies,
no jokes) and their bodies wash
up on the beach to rot. Deb off
Lovely Reta was especially
sensitive to the scent and found a
temporary solution..
Besides the annoying little things
from Mother Nature, this was a
great anchorage and we got to
share it with great people like
Annie and Casey (V'ger), John
and Deb (Lovely Reta), and Tom
and Diane.
of time at was Isla Coronados.
This is where we were "bee'd out"
for the first time. The bees are
looking for fresh water. On
islands the greatest source of
fresh water is often a boat at
anchorage. A scout bee will come
by and check out your boat and if
he finds any fresh water he will go
back and get all his associates.
These aren't very aggressive
bees - it's pretty easy to kill them.
Sometimes they will fall dead right
out of the sky if you give them an
half way decent swat. Still they
are kind of annoying.
Isla Coronados is also known for
it's dead squid smell. Apparently,
the males die after mating (ladies,
no jokes) and their bodies wash
up on the beach to rot. Deb off
Lovely Reta was especially
sensitive to the scent and found a
temporary solution..
Besides the annoying little things
from Mother Nature, this was a
great anchorage and we got to
share it with great people like
Annie and Casey (V'ger), John
and Deb (Lovely Reta), and Tom
and Diane.
This is also where we were reunited with
George, Melinda and Joshua off Southern
Belle. Southern Belle is a 42 ft
Cataraman. She's @ 23 ft wide, so she
does not sneak into an anchorage.
Especially when George is playing guitar
and singing "Rolling Stone" which
happens to be an unofficial theme song.
Six year old, Joshua, even knows the
words.
We also enjoyed several noodle parties.
Everyone grabs a noodle (flotation aid)
and a drink and meets at a
pre-determined boat.
John and Deb usually bring along an old
boogy board which makes a lovely wet
bar.
OK, it's July 3rd so we must head into Bahia Conception. We
follow Lovely Reta to El Burro cove, the site of the infamous 4th of
July party. The party is hosted by Geary who is a full-time
resident of El Burro. Geary used to be in retail management in
Northern California and is STILL a Raider fan. So, of course, he
is cool in my book.
The party is great. Geary provides the hot dogs and the cruisers
provide potluck dishes. The beer truck shows up and offers beers
for 10 pesos (less than $1.00). More than 15 boats were
anchored in El Burro, so it was a pretty good turnout. The party
was also attended by townies, including Travis who arrived in the
shark panga "Jolly Rodger."
Doug and Jo (Jenny) brought their Karaoke machine. That was
pretty dangerous. The night ended with a typical Mexican
fireworks show which made you feel like you were in the middle of
Iraq.
follow Lovely Reta to El Burro cove, the site of the infamous 4th of
July party. The party is hosted by Geary who is a full-time
resident of El Burro. Geary used to be in retail management in
Northern California and is STILL a Raider fan. So, of course, he
is cool in my book.
The party is great. Geary provides the hot dogs and the cruisers
provide potluck dishes. The beer truck shows up and offers beers
for 10 pesos (less than $1.00). More than 15 boats were
anchored in El Burro, so it was a pretty good turnout. The party
was also attended by townies, including Travis who arrived in the
shark panga "Jolly Rodger."
Doug and Jo (Jenny) brought their Karaoke machine. That was
pretty dangerous. The night ended with a typical Mexican
fireworks show which made you feel like you were in the middle of
Iraq.
We leave Bahia
Conception and head to
Isla San Marcos. There is
a gypsum mine on the
south side, so we head up
to the northern end.
Southern Belle finds a
great anchorage full of
caves and cool rocks.
The anchorage is about
10 miles outside Santa
Rosalia and we can see
the lights of the town at
night.
Conception and head to
Isla San Marcos. There is
a gypsum mine on the
south side, so we head up
to the northern end.
Southern Belle finds a
great anchorage full of
caves and cool rocks.
The anchorage is about
10 miles outside Santa
Rosalia and we can see
the lights of the town at
night.
After a couple of days at Isla San Marcos,
we head into Santa Rosalia. We get a
slip in the "new" Marina which is run by
Singlar. It looks exactly like the facilities at
Puerto Escondido, except there are
actually slips (only 16). The facilities are
huge and include, laundry (which is free),
showers, lap pool, jacuzzi, three story
office building among others. All this for
only 16 slips! Marina Manager, Chuck,
from our home port - Ventura West Marina
- would be in heaven here. The wonderful
staff outnumbers the boaters.
Santa Rosalia is a great little town. The
French began mining copper here in
1866, resulting in a different architecture.
The buildings are primarily made of wood -
very unusual for Mexico.
we head into Santa Rosalia. We get a
slip in the "new" Marina which is run by
Singlar. It looks exactly like the facilities at
Puerto Escondido, except there are
actually slips (only 16). The facilities are
huge and include, laundry (which is free),
showers, lap pool, jacuzzi, three story
office building among others. All this for
only 16 slips! Marina Manager, Chuck,
from our home port - Ventura West Marina
- would be in heaven here. The wonderful
staff outnumbers the boaters.
Santa Rosalia is a great little town. The
French began mining copper here in
1866, resulting in a different architecture.
The buildings are primarily made of wood -
very unusual for Mexico.
Currently, Santa Rosalia is known for it's squid fishing. Every night (except Saturday) the massive panga fleet leaves the harbor right before sunset. They position themselves and
begin to drag in the GIANT squid ( up to 4 ft. long) after dark. Some are out until 2:00 am.
They clean these squid outside the harbor and bring their catch in to be weighed and eventually shipped to Asia. It's is very entertaining to watch the fleet come in.
The local officials are trying to stop the sell and use of narcotics that sometimes goes with night fishing. This, too, can be entertaining to watch. Fellow cruisers told us the story about
one guy who jumped in the water - after he was hand cuffed. The local official borrowed a fellow cruiser's dinghy to get the guy out of the water.
After 8 weeks anchored out, we are really enjoying the facilities. We've had pool parties and bbqs at the marina. We've also enjoyed dining out. We went out several times with John
and Linda (Nakia), Southern Belle and Doug and June (Gettin' Around).
More than once we have been followed home by the "Happy Dogs" as named by John and Linda. These two have to be related and they are VERY happy. We don't know where they
come from, but they find us every night we are in town. Twice they follow us back to the Marina and we have to close the big glass doors, so they don't follow us to our boats.
begin to drag in the GIANT squid ( up to 4 ft. long) after dark. Some are out until 2:00 am.
They clean these squid outside the harbor and bring their catch in to be weighed and eventually shipped to Asia. It's is very entertaining to watch the fleet come in.
The local officials are trying to stop the sell and use of narcotics that sometimes goes with night fishing. This, too, can be entertaining to watch. Fellow cruisers told us the story about
one guy who jumped in the water - after he was hand cuffed. The local official borrowed a fellow cruiser's dinghy to get the guy out of the water.
After 8 weeks anchored out, we are really enjoying the facilities. We've had pool parties and bbqs at the marina. We've also enjoyed dining out. We went out several times with John
and Linda (Nakia), Southern Belle and Doug and June (Gettin' Around).
More than once we have been followed home by the "Happy Dogs" as named by John and Linda. These two have to be related and they are VERY happy. We don't know where they
come from, but they find us every night we are in town. Twice they follow us back to the Marina and we have to close the big glass doors, so they don't follow us to our boats.
Well, it was time to start heading north if we were going to make the annual 4th of July party in Bahia Conception. We weren't all that anxious to get to Bahia Conception because it can
be 10 degrees hotter than other places in the Sea. And it was plenty hot already. Even though I have been psyching myself up for this heat for about a year and a half, it still can be
hard to take. We decide to anchor outside of Bahia Conception at Santa Domingo. We were not alone. Lovely Reta, Sailors Run were there among others.
be 10 degrees hotter than other places in the Sea. And it was plenty hot already. Even though I have been psyching myself up for this heat for about a year and a half, it still can be
hard to take. We decide to anchor outside of Bahia Conception at Santa Domingo. We were not alone. Lovely Reta, Sailors Run were there among others.